2001 chevy silverado manual transmission

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The main case is open at both ends, the bell housing. There is an internal single-rail shift linkage with the shifter mounted on top of the extension housing.

Front and rear main bearings are ball type and the cluster gear has a shaft running through it, that is supported by loose needles.

Case casting is number Front and rear main bearings are tapered. The cluster gear is solid and is supported on each end by cylindrical roller bearings located in the case.

Case castings numbers are or The Isuzu logo is cast into the left side of the case. Is not found in the Chevy LUV. It has a rectangular cast iron front bearing retainer and a 27 tooth rear output shaft.

The front and rear countershaft bearings are both 25x62x Side-loaded with either aluminum or cast iron case and used in both gas and diesel applications. All of these units are 3 speeds with Overdrive. Cast iron case with cast iron top cover.

All gears on the countershaft are removable except for 1st. Early units have threads on the input shaft and do not have a front seal. Has GM casting numbers and one P. Cast iron case with cast iron top cover from and an aluminum top cover Non-synchronized 1st with brass synchro rings for 2nd-4th. All main shaft gears ride on bushings pressed on the shaft.

The only gears that are removable from the countershaft are 3rd and 4th. Has GM casting numbers and two P. Main bearings may be either ball or tapered design. Non-synchronized 1st gear, synchronized 2nd-4th. There are no brass synchro rings. All gears, including reverse, are helical cut. See New Process for more information. The bell housing. It has a removable tube that the throwout bearing rides on. The main bearing in this unit is comprised of caged needles in shell races.

Loose needles and flat thrust bearings are used throughout the transmission. Casting number is Limited parts availability. Parts List 54 Aluminum case, end-loaded unit with an integral bell housing. Isuzu logo is cast into the drivers side of the case. This is found only is GM diesel applications and has a different starter position than the unit that goes into the Isuzu vehicles. Mistake 1. The guys who write the shop manuals and the powertrain engineers have a sick sense of humor, IMO.

Now all they have is a grainy autocad dwg with numbered arrows sometimes pointing to parts. Sometimes there is NO description of where the part is that you're supposed to remove. For instance, took 45 mins to get the shift lever assy off because the big rubber insulator between the top of the trans and the floor pan was a pain to get off.

Finally soaked it with soapy spray to get it to slide out without tearing it up. Other stuff, starter, prop shafts, cross-member all came off pretty easy.

Got the transfer case out even though the description of the procedure in the manual leaves a lot to be desired and is not accurate, IMO. Built a trans jack frame out of 2x stock and attached it to a floor jack. Got the trans loose even though there were a few bolts that were darn near impossible to reach up near the top and took every extension and several different approaches before I got them off.

Now here's my question. The trans is free from the engine and sitting on the stand but even with tilting it, it doesn't appear there is enough clearance to get it down because the exhaust crossover pipe goes cross-car right underneath it, about midway.

The manual didn't say anything about removing the exhaust system. Hate to do unnecessary removal as exhaust bolts will require heat to get off and reuse. But from the looks of things, that may be the easiest approach. Also considered leaving the trans up above the crossover pipe on the stand as I think I can get the slave cylinder out and a new one installed since there's about inches of gap between the trans and bell housing.

Can probably even get the pressure plate and flywheel off with it up there, although that would probably be a pain. The problem with this approach, I think, will be the removal of the pilot bearing. BTW, noticed the back of the engine dropped down considerably when the trans was off, so the face of the bellhousing is no longer vertical.

Figured that it just rocked back on the isolators. Any harm in leaving it that way for a while or should I jack it up level while I work on the trans? Sorry if I offended you with my post. Just looking for some advice from people who've BTDT.

Just wish the shop manuals would have said that to start with. Just wish the shop manual had said so right up front.

I kept looking at it and thinking that it would be easier with it out but didn't know if it was "necessary" to remove it for clearance. NickV, funny you mention the Gearwrench. I bought a 15mm stubby during this job.

It really helped. Your post reminded me to get a 10mm die to chase the threads on the other studs before the pipe goes back on.